FAQ 

Your pool filter is the single most important component in keeping your swimming pool clean. Ideally, a filter should run all the time for maximum circulation and debris removal. A minimum of 8 hours a day in summer and 4 to 6 hours per day in the winter is highly recommended.

Yes. Dirt, pollen, and algae will naturally collect in all the crevices of your pool, so use a pool brush to break it up. Regular churning of the water (from brushing or swimming) will give the filter an opportunity to suck up the debris before it settles.

To keep your pool well-maintained, always make sure to do these things:
  • Brush the walls, ladder, steps, and any other low circulation spots daily.
  • Skim the pool water surface daily.
  • Vacuum the pool once a week.

This comes from a variety of outside elements, such as body oils, shampoos and lotions mixing with the water, yard debris and bugs falling in the pool, etc.

A clean filter, pristine tile surfaces, and the clearest water will all contribute to your overall pool enjoyment. With supplement products, you can achieve your best pool environment. Supplements are the finishing touch to quality pool care. Ask your pool care professional how you can maximize the use of your pool.

It is important to shock your pool every 1 – 2 weeks on a regular basis. Shocking the pool on a regular basis is an important element in keeping your pool clear and clean. Swimmers and the environment add waste to the pool that must be eliminated on a regular basis in order to prevent problems such as algae and cloudy water.

pH is the measure of acid and base in the pool water. The pH of the pool should be tested and adjusted, if necessary, on a weekly basis. If the pH of the pool water drifts to the acid side of the scale, corrosion of pool surfaces and equipment can occur. If the pH of the pool water drifts to the base side – scaling, deposits, and cloudy water can occur.

Below are a few of the most common materials that lead to surface stains on the pool walls and floor. Their exact effects are always influenced by the water’s overall pH, oxidation-reduction potential, calcium hardness, total alkalinity, and saturation index.

  1. Iron (Fe)
    • Origins: Fill water, degraded pipes or equipment, impurities in salt.
    • Evidence: Green water; cloudy yellow, red, or brown water or surface stains.
    • Treatment: Sequestering or chelating agent; gentle brushing, or chlorine/acid wash for more severe stains.
  2. Copper (Cu)
    • Origins: Fill water, degraded pipes or equipment, copper algaecides, impurities in salt.
    • Evidence: Green, blue-green, yellow, brown, gray, or black color in water or plaster.
    • Treatment: Sequestering or chelating agent; gentle brushing, or chlorine/acid wash for more severe stains.
  3. Manganese (Mn)
    • Origins: Fill water, impurities in salt.
    • Evidence: Gray, black, lavender, or purple color in water or plaster.
    • Treatment:
      1. Sequestering or chelating agent; gentle brushing, or chlorine/acid wash for more severe stains or gray deposits on plaster.
      2. Gentle brushing, or acid wash for tougher deposits; balance pH and calcium hardness.
  4. Fertilizer Stains
    • Origins: Fertilizer pellets that get into the water will drop to the floor of the pool. These pellets contain iron and other minerals, which then stain the pool.
    • Evidence: Brown spots.
    • Treatment: These stains will go away on their own if the pool water is balanced properly.
  5. Leaf Stains
    • Origins: Leaves that have fallen into the pool and are not promptly removed.
    • Evidence: Brown stains where leaves have accumulated.
    • Treatment: These stains will go away on their own with elevated free chlorine in the water.